1. The Core Principle: Load > Capacity = Injury
Every tissue in your body has a mechanical capacity:
- tendons = tensile load
- pulleys = shear load + sudden max force
- cartilage = compression
- muscle = contractile force
- ligaments = rotational torque
- joints = multi-directional load
When the external load (training, climbing, dynamic moves, repetition) exceeds this capacity → the tissue must fail.
Not “might fail.”
Must.
No exceptions, no randomness.
This is why elite climbers stay healthy for years while beginners break down on V3 volume:
capacity is lower, load is similar or higher.
2. What Is “Load” in Climbing?
Load is every mechanical force placed on tissue:
Mechanical load sources
- max hangs
- dynamic deadpoints
- compression moves
- high steps / dropknees (knee torque)
- gastons / underclings (shoulder load)
- sloper pulling (wrist + forearm shear)
- volume smearing (ankle + calf load)
Biological load modifiers
- fatigue
- stress (cortisol reduces collagen turnover)
- dehydration (tendon stiffness ↑)
- sleep deficit (3× injury risk)
- temperature of tissue
- previous micro-damage
Load is not “effort.”
It is force applied to biological structures.
3. What Is “Capacity”?
Capacity is the maximum load a tissue can handle without structural damage.
Capacity depends on:
- collagen density
- cross-linking quality
- tendon thickness
- joint stability
- muscular balance
- technique efficiency
- rest cycles
- nutrition (collagen, vitamin C, protein)
Two climbers can do the same move:
One is totally fine.
The other tears A2.
Why?
Different capacities.
4. Chronic vs Acute Injury: Same Mechanism, Different Timeframe
Acute injury
Load spikes suddenly past capacity.
Examples:
- A2 pulley tear during a max deadpoint
- bicep tendon pop catching a swing
- ankle sprain from bad landing
Chronic injury
Load exceeds capacity by a small amount, repeatedly.
Examples:
- medial epicondylitis
- shoulder impingement
- flexor overload
- wrist pain from slopers
Chronic injury is slow-motion tissue failure.
5. Why Climbers Get Injured: The 3 Real Causes
Cause 1 — Sudden Loading Spike
Typical scenarios:
- “one more try”
- dynamic moves in a fatigued state
- returning too fast after a break
- switching styles (slab → steep)
Cause 2 — Technical Inefficiency
Poor vectors increase load by 30–60%:
- overgripping
- bad wrist angles
- elbows flaring
- hips too far from wall
- wrong force direction on slopers
Technique errors = higher local load.
Cause 3 — Under-Recovered Biomechanics
Capacity decreases when:
- sleep ↓
- hydration ↓
- stress ↑
- nutrition poor
- collagen turnover impaired
Most “mysterious” injuries are simply under-recovered tissues being overloaded.
6. Early Warning System (Yellow & Red Flags)
Yellow Flags (capacity dropping)
- morning tendon stiffness
- dull ache during warm-up
- pain only when cold
- predictable soreness after certain moves
- stiffness that improves with movement
These are warning signs, not injuries yet.
Red Flags (load exceeding capacity)
Stop immediately:
- sharp local pain
- popping sensation
- instant weakness
- swelling
- grip loss
- stabbing wrist/finger pain
Red flag = acute tissue overload.
7. How to Increase Capacity
1. Progressive Loading (2–5% rule)
Same principle als finger strength —
the safest way om capacity te verhogen.
2. Collagen-Specific Nutrition
- 10–15g gelatine/collagen + vitamin C pre-load
- adequate total protein
- hydration during climbing
3. Strengthening the Surrounding Muscles
(e.g. scapular mechanics for shoulder capacity)
4. Technique Optimization
Better vectors → lower tissue load.
5. Sleep + Recovery Cycles
Most collagen synthesis happens during deep sleep.
8. Load Management Strategy (Praktisch model)
Intensity × Volume × Frequency × Recovery = Injury risk
To reduce risk:
- keep intensity high, volume low
- increase training by max 5–8% per week
- avoid two max-intensity days back-to-back
- watch morning stiffness → indicator of capacity
- alternate grip types
- deload every 3–5 weeks
This model alone prevents 70–80% van alle overuse injuries.
9. Prevention Routine (5–7 minutes)
Daily Tissue Prep
- 60–90s isometrics at 30–40%
- wrist pronation/supination mobility
- shoulder external rotation activation
- extensor activation (rubber band)
- light foot + ankle proprioception
Perfect warm-up for elke sessie.
10. When to Seek Professional Help
- sharp pain
- swelling
- clicking/popping
- persistent symptoms despite load reduction
- loss of strength
Mechanics → bij mij.
Medical → extern.