Climbers often think finger injuries happen because the fingers are “too weak.”
In reality, many injuries happen when passive structures are forced to do the job of active control.
Passive structures are the parts that do not contract to create force:
- ligaments
- joint capsules
- pulleys
- cartilage surfaces
- connective tissue restraints
They are essential for stability — but they are not built to absorb chaotic, repeated overload.
This article explains what passive structures do, why they get irritated, and how technique and training choices decide whether they stay healthy.
1. Active vs passive support (simple definition)
Active support
- muscles generate tension
- tendons transmit it
- you can “control” it consciously
Active support is adjustable.
Passive support
- ligaments, capsules, pulleys resist motion
- they limit joint travel
- they absorb force when alignment fails
Passive support is not adjustable in the moment.
When a grip collapses or a move goes wrong, passive tissues become the emergency brake.
2. The joint capsule: the “envelope” around the joint
Every finger joint (MCP, PIP, DIP) is wrapped in a joint capsule.
Its role:
- keep the joint stable
- guide the joint through its normal motion
- limit excessive joint translation
- protect joint surfaces under load
In climbing, the PIP capsule is especially important because crimp positions create high bending angles.
When the capsule is overloaded, climbers feel:
- stiffness at the joint
- tenderness around the joint line
- “tight joint” sensation after sessions
- discomfort when warming up
- irritation that improves as the finger warms
This is often confused with “tendon pain,” but it’s different.
3. Collateral ligaments: the side stabilizers
On both sides of each finger joint are collateral ligaments.
Their job:
- prevent sideways wobble
- keep the joint aligned under load
- resist twisting forces when holds are uneven
They get stressed by:
- pockets and uneven grips
- twisting on small edges
- dynamic catches where fingers land imperfectly
- fatigue-induced instability
- “side-pulling” holds where force is not symmetrical
Ligament irritation often feels:
- more local than tendon pain
- sharper with certain directions
- worse when the finger is pulled sideways
4. Volar plate: the anti-hyperextension restraint
The volar plate is a thick passive structure on the palm side of finger joints (especially PIP).
Its role:
- prevent hyperextension
- protect the joint when force pushes the finger backward
In climbing, it’s most relevant in:
- awkward open-hand catches
- pockets with unexpected load
- slips where the finger is forced open
- certain compression positions
If irritated, it can feel like:
- pain in the front of the joint
- discomfort when straightening the finger
- stiffness after hard days
5. Why passive structures get overloaded
Passive tissues take load when any of these happen:
-
Angle drift under fatigue
The joint shifts, passive tissues resist. -
High intensity on small edges
Small changes in form produce big stress spikes. -
Chaotic session design
Random grips, random edges, random intensity. -
Cold fingers
Passive tissues become stiffer and less tolerant. -
Sudden catches
Passive tissues absorb shock before muscles can respond.
The common theme: lack of control.
Passive structures hate surprises.
6. The practical takeaway: what to do in training
If you want passive tissues to stay healthy, your training must be designed around:
- stable joint angles
- repeatable grip positions
- predictable volume
- slow intensity progression
- longer warm-ups in cold conditions
- stopping sets when technique collapses
This is exactly why:
- we avoid full crimp volume
- we don’t jump edge sizes
- we progress 2–5%
- we prioritize stability over PRs
Passive tissues are not trained by “more effort.”
They are protected by better structure.
Putting it all together
Passive finger structures (capsules, ligaments, volar plates, pulleys) are the stabilizers and limiters of finger motion.
They keep you safe when everything is perfect —
and they get irritated when technique fails or fatigue breaks alignment.
If you treat finger training like a system:
- active tissues produce force
- passive tissues guide and protect
- your job is to keep the load predictable
Then you don’t just get stronger — you stay healthy.