Tendon & Pulley Biology: Adaptation, Degradation & Recovery

Tendon & Pulley Biology: Adaptation, Degradation & Recovery

1. Tendons & Pulleys Are Collagen Structures, Not Muscles

Muscles adapt fast (days–weeks).
Tendons and pulleys adapt slow (weeks–months).

Why?

They are made of type I collagen, designed for:

  • tensile load
  • repetitive stress absorption
  • elastic energy storage
  • joint stability

They do not have:

  • rich blood supply
  • fast cell turnover
  • quick healing potential

This explains 80% of climbing overuse injuries.

2. Tendon Adaptation Is Slow Because Collagen Turnover Is Slow

Muscle

  • Full protein turnover: ~1–2 days
  • Responds quickly to stimulus
  • Easy to strengthen

Tendon / Pulley

  • Full collagen turnover: ~100–200 days
  • Very slow adaptation
  • Capacity increases only with consistent, progressive load

Meaning:
A climber can feel stronger (muscle), while the tendon is still underdeveloped.

This mismatch → injury.

3. Tendons Strengthen Through Load, Not Through Rest

Rest does NOT strengthen tendons.
It:

  • decreases collagen cross-link density
  • reduces tendon stiffness
  • lowers capacity

Rest = short-term pain reduction, long-term tissue weakening.

Tendons strengthen through:

  • isometric loading
  • slow eccentric loading
  • progressive tension
  • frequent low-intensity stress

Load → stimulates fibroblast activity → collagen synthesis → stronger tendon.

But ONLY if load is gradual.

4. Why Pulleys Are Vulnerable in Climbers

Pulleys (A2, A3, A4) are annular ligaments:

  • tiny
  • thin
  • limited blood flow
  • fixed structural roles
  • specialized for friction control on flexor tendons

They are extremely good at one thing:

Handling consistent, predictable line loading.

They are extremely bad at:

  • sudden spikes
  • off-axis force
  • violent direction changes
  • crimping under fatigue
  • cold tissue loads

A2 takes ~30% of all flexor tendon load in a crimp.
A4 stabilizes the DIP joint.

Any vector error + load spike → overload.

5. Why Tendons Fail: Micro-Tears → Disorganization → Degeneration

Tendon degradation follows a predictable sequence:

Stage 1 — Micro-tears

Load slightly > capacity
→ small collagen damage
→ often painless
→ stiffness next morning

Stage 2 — Disorganization

Fibers lose alignment
→ tendon feels “weak”
→ vague pain
→ reduced stiffness

Stage 3 — Degeneration

Collagen replaced by weaker Type III collagen
→ chronic pain
→ poor load tolerance
→ long-term rehab needed

This progression is reversible — but only with correct mechanical loading.

6. Why Tendons Feel Worse in the Morning

During sleep:

  • tendons dehydrate
  • synovial fluid viscosity changes
  • tissue stiffness increases
  • collagen fibers “reset” alignment

This makes them less tolerant to morning load.

Morning pain =
early warning sign of under-recovered collagen.

Ignoring it → chronic tendinopathy.

7. Why Tendon Injuries Are “Slow to Heal”

Tendons lack:

  • perfusion
  • fast immune response
  • rapid matrix turnover
  • metabolic support

Collagen synthesis takes 48–72 hours after a stimulus.
Peak remodeling = about 2–3 days later.

This is why intense tendon training >2× per week = overload.

8. How Tendons Recover: The Three-Phase Rehab Model

Phase 1 — Isometrics (Pain Reduction + Early Load)

  • 30–45 seconds
  • 30–70% max
  • 4–6 reps
  • 1–2× daily
    Purpose: calm pain + stimulate safe loading.

Phase 2 — Slow Eccentrics (Remodeling)

  • 3–5 seconds down
  • 8–12 reps
  • 3× week
    Purpose: collagen realignment + improved stiffness.

Phase 3 — Heavy–Slow Resistance / Return to Load

  • 70–85% max
  • 3× week
    Purpose: restore real climbing capacity.

Rest → does nothing.
Load → restores tendon biology.

9. Technique Errors That Overload Tendons & Pulleys

Tendon stress ↑ when:

  • wrists collapse inward → shear load ↑
  • elbows flare → force vector misaligned
  • hips drift outward → finger force ↑
  • slopers pulled downward → skin shear ↑
  • you overgrip → flexor load skyrockets
  • dynamic moves caught hard → velocity → force spike

Technique is biomechanical medicine.

10. Prevention Routine (Daily 5–7 min)

Tendon Prep Circuit

  • 3× 30s isometrics on large edge
  • 20 controlled wrist pronation/supination
  • 10–15 slow extensor curls
  • 30s shoulder external rotation
  • 30s gentle rubber band extensions

This builds tendon stiffness and reduces pulley stress.

When to Seek Help

  • swelling
  • popping sensation
  • persistent night pain
  • inability to grip
  • sudden sharp pain in finger joint
  • rapid loss of force

Publicación anterior Publicación siguiente