Load vs Capacity: The Only Model That Predicts Injury

Load vs Capacity: The Only Model That Predicts Injury

1. The Core Principle: Load > Capacity = Injury

Every tissue in your body has a mechanical capacity:

  • tendons = tensile load
  • pulleys = shear load + sudden max force
  • cartilage = compression
  • muscle = contractile force
  • ligaments = rotational torque
  • joints = multi-directional load

When the external load (training, climbing, dynamic moves, repetition) exceeds this capacity → the tissue must fail.
Not “might fail.”
Must.

No exceptions, no randomness.

This is why elite climbers stay healthy for years while beginners break down on V3 volume:
capacity is lower, load is similar or higher.

2. What Is “Load” in Climbing?

Load is every mechanical force placed on tissue:

Mechanical load sources

  • max hangs
  • dynamic deadpoints
  • compression moves
  • high steps / dropknees (knee torque)
  • gastons / underclings (shoulder load)
  • sloper pulling (wrist + forearm shear)
  • volume smearing (ankle + calf load)

Biological load modifiers

  • fatigue
  • stress (cortisol reduces collagen turnover)
  • dehydration (tendon stiffness ↑)
  • sleep deficit (3× injury risk)
  • temperature of tissue
  • previous micro-damage

Load is not “effort.”
It is force applied to biological structures.

3. What Is “Capacity”?

Capacity is the maximum load a tissue can handle without structural damage.

Capacity depends on:

  • collagen density
  • cross-linking quality
  • tendon thickness
  • joint stability
  • muscular balance
  • technique efficiency
  • rest cycles
  • nutrition (collagen, vitamin C, protein)

Two climbers can do the same move:
One is totally fine.
The other tears A2.

Why?
Different capacities.

4. Chronic vs Acute Injury: Same Mechanism, Different Timeframe

Acute injury

Load spikes suddenly past capacity.
Examples:

  • A2 pulley tear during a max deadpoint
  • bicep tendon pop catching a swing
  • ankle sprain from bad landing

Chronic injury

Load exceeds capacity by a small amount, repeatedly.
Examples:

Chronic injury is slow-motion tissue failure.

5. Why Climbers Get Injured: The 3 Real Causes

Cause 1 — Sudden Loading Spike

Typical scenarios:

  • “one more try”
  • dynamic moves in a fatigued state
  • returning too fast after a break
  • switching styles (slab → steep)

Cause 2 — Technical Inefficiency

Poor vectors increase load by 30–60%:

  • overgripping
  • bad wrist angles
  • elbows flaring
  • hips too far from wall
  • wrong force direction on slopers

Technique errors = higher local load.

Cause 3 — Under-Recovered Biomechanics

Capacity decreases when:

  • sleep ↓
  • hydration ↓
  • stress ↑
  • nutrition poor
  • collagen turnover impaired

Most “mysterious” injuries are simply under-recovered tissues being overloaded.

6. Early Warning System (Yellow & Red Flags)

Yellow Flags (capacity dropping)

  • morning tendon stiffness
  • dull ache during warm-up
  • pain only when cold
  • predictable soreness after certain moves
  • stiffness that improves with movement

These are warning signs, not injuries yet.

Red Flags (load exceeding capacity)

Stop immediately:

  • sharp local pain
  • popping sensation
  • instant weakness
  • swelling
  • grip loss
  • stabbing wrist/finger pain

Red flag = acute tissue overload.

7. How to Increase Capacity

1. Progressive Loading (2–5% rule)

Same principle als finger strength —
the safest way om capacity te verhogen.

2. Collagen-Specific Nutrition

  • 10–15g gelatine/collagen + vitamin C pre-load
  • adequate total protein
  • hydration during climbing

3. Strengthening the Surrounding Muscles

(e.g. scapular mechanics for shoulder capacity)

4. Technique Optimization

Better vectors → lower tissue load.

5. Sleep + Recovery Cycles

Most collagen synthesis happens during deep sleep.

8. Load Management Strategy (Praktisch model)

Intensity × Volume × Frequency × Recovery = Injury risk

To reduce risk:

  • keep intensity high, volume low
  • increase training by max 5–8% per week
  • avoid two max-intensity days back-to-back
  • watch morning stiffness → indicator of capacity
  • alternate grip types
  • deload every 3–5 weeks

This model alone prevents 70–80% van alle overuse injuries.

9. Prevention Routine (5–7 minutes)

Daily Tissue Prep

  • 60–90s isometrics at 30–40%
  • wrist pronation/supination mobility
  • shoulder external rotation activation
  • extensor activation (rubber band)
  • light foot + ankle proprioception

Perfect warm-up for elke sessie.

10. When to Seek Professional Help

  • sharp pain
  • swelling
  • clicking/popping
  • persistent symptoms despite load reduction
  • loss of strength

Mechanics → bij mij.
Medical → extern.

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