1. The Purpose of a Rehab Week (It’s Not “Rest”)
A rehab week is designed to:
- reduce irritation
- stimulate tendon remodeling
- maintain strength
- restore movement control
- re-introduce load safely
Rehab is active remodeling, not passive recovery.
Rest alone creates:
- weaker tendon stiffness
- slower collagen alignment
- higher reinjury risk
Rehab weeks use targeted load, not rest.
2. The Rehab Triangle: 3 Forms of Load
Every rehab week balances three types of loading:
1. Isometrics (static tension)
- Reduce pain
- Improve tendon stiffness
- Safe in early stage
2. Eccentrics (slow lowering)
- Stimulate collagen remodeling
- Increase tendon capacity
- Safe when pain <3/10
3. Progressive Loading
- Return to climbing-specific load
- Gradual 2–5% increases
Rehab is simply:
Isometrics → Eccentrics → Progressive Loading
3. The Ideal Rehab Week Structure (Universal Template)
This werkt voor alle blessures in jouw injury guides (G1–G10).
Day 1 — Isometrics + Mobility
(20–40% effort, no pain increase)
Day 2 — Eccentrics (light)
3–5s lowering
Pain <3/10
Day 3 — Rest or mobility
(Active rest only)
Day 4 — Isometrics + Eccentrics (medium)
Slightly more load; still pain <3/10
Day 5 — Progressive Loading (entry level)
2–5% increase
Always technique-first
Day 6 — Easy climbing OR active conditioning
Only if pain stayed stable.
Day 7 — Rest
This is your baseline rehab microcycle.
4. Rehab Progression Rules (The 3 Tests)
Before you increase load next week, 3 things must be true:
Test 1 — No Morning Pain
The most important signal.
Test 2 — No Pain Spike During Session
Set-to-set pain should remain stable.
Test 3 — No Next-Day Irritation
Light stiffness = okay
Increased pain = too much load
If any of these fail → repeat the week.
5. How to Adjust Load Week-by-Week
If pain <2/10 all week
→ Increase load 5–10% the next week.
If pain between 2–3/10
→ Repeat same week with small adjustments.
If pain >3/10
→ Drop back 1 rehab phase (eccentrics → isometrics).
If pain at rest
→ Stop loading → restart at Phase 1.
This is the same model elite physios use.
6. How Much Climbing Is Allowed During Rehab?
Depends on pain.
0–1/10 pain
→ You may climb:
- easy routes
- vertical terrain
- large holds
- no crimps
- no dynamic moves
2/10 pain
→ Climb only technique drills
→ No load-bearing moves
3+/10 pain
→ Climbing paused
→ Rehab continues
Climbing is allowed if pain does not escalate during or after.
7. Typical Rehab Timelines (Realistic, Not Fantasy)
Finger & pulley irritation
6–12 weeks
Tendons remodel slow.
Elbow tendinopathy
8–16 weeks
Shoulder instability
8–20 weeks (depends on scapular control)
Biceps tendon
6–12 weeks
Knee torque injuries
3–12 weeks
Ankle sprain
4–16 weeks (severity-dependent)
Rehab is slow — because collagen is slow.
8. The “Safe Increase Formula”
Increase only ONE variable each week:
-
Intensity ↑ 2–5%
or -
Volume ↑ 5–10%
or - Frequency ↑ 1 session
Never increase all at once.
This is the single biggest mistake climbers make.
9. Sample 4-Week Rehab Block
Week 1 — Isometrics + light eccentrics
Pain reduces, movement control returns.
Week 2 — Moderate eccentrics + low climbing
Load becomes more climbing-specific.
Week 3 — Progressive loading + technique climbing
Return to moderate edges, low intensity.
Week 4 — Normal load, reduced volume
Test week.
If stable → return to full training.
If unstable → repeat Week 3.
10. Red Flags During Rehab
Stop increasing load if:
- pain jumps suddenly
- morning stiffness lasts >1 hour
- joint feels unstable
- pain appears at rest
- swelling increases
These indicate overload or wrong phase.