Dropknees and twistlocks are not “technique tricks.”
They are rotational leverage systems that solve problems ordinary pulling and pushing cannot.
Mechanically, both movements use:
- torque (rotational force)
- increased contact angles
- triangulation
- improved CoM alignment
- force redirection through the hips
This allows climbers to:
- turn bad sidepulls into strong holds
- stabilise awkward body positions
- reduce the load on the arms
- reach higher with less effort
- maintain friction on small feet
- create stability through geometry, not muscle
Understanding the mechanics reveals why these moves are essential — especially on modern bouldering and steep terrain.
1. What a Dropknee Actually Does (Mechanically)
A dropknee is a rotational system that changes:
- your hips’ orientation
- your CoM position
- the leverage of the pulling arm
- the force direction on the hold
- the inward pressure on the feet
The key mechanical effects:
1. Increased inward force on the foothold
Dropping the knee rotates the foot inward, increasing rubber deformation and friction.
2. Torso rotation aligns the pulling shoulder
This increases pulling stability and reduces torque on the hand.
3. The CoM moves closer to the wall
This decreases shoulder load and improves sloper/sidepull friction.
4. Triangulation improves stability
Two feet + one hand form a mechanically stable triangle.
A dropknee is a geometric lock, not a stylistic pose.
2. Twistlocks: Holding Position with Rotational Torque
A twistlock is the static sibling of a dropknee.
It involves:
- hip rotation
- oblique/core engagement
- shoulder closing
- CoM shifting into the wall
- torsion through the kinetic chain
Mechanically, a twistlock:
- increases downward and inward force
- reduces the perceived load on the pulling arm
- makes small holds feel bigger
- lets you reach farther without losing balance
- sets up high steps or long reaches
It is your best tool for stabilizing asymmetrical positions.
3. Why Rotation Creates More Stability Than Tension
Most climbers try to stabilize by:
- tightening the core
- pulling harder
- stiffening the shoulder
But real stability comes from rotational force redirection, because:
- rotation moves the CoM into a stable zone
- muscles engage along their strongest lines of tension
- friction increases as the foot pivots
- the kinetic chain becomes more cohesive
- the vector aligns with the hold’s geometry
Straight pulling is unstable.
Rotational pulling is mechanically stable.
4. How Dropknees Reduce Arm Load
Dropknees shift load from the arm to the lower body:
- the hip drops → CoM lowers
- the torso rotates → shoulder stacks under the hold
- the inside foot becomes an inward pressure generator
- the outside foot becomes a stabilizer
This changes the arm from a primary load carrier to a direction stabilizer.
Mechanically, this is why you suddenly “feel strong” on a bad sidepull.
The geometry does the work.
5. Foot Mechanics: The Inside Foot Does the Heavy Lifting
In a dropknee:
Inside foot = friction engine
- pushes inward
- increases rubber deformation
- locks the CoM in place
- resists lateral slip
- drives rotational force upward
Outside foot = stabilizer
- controls hip rotation
- prevents over-twisting
- moderates torque
If the inside foot slips, the entire dropknee collapses —
because the rotational system loses its anchor.
6. The CoM Shift Is the Real Power Source
Both dropknees and twistlocks work because they reposition the CoM:
- closer to the wall
- deeper into the friction zone
- beneath the pulling shoulder
- into a stable triangulation pattern
This reduces torque at the fingers and shoulders.
The move feels suddenly “easy” because the CoM is in a mechanically efficient position.
7. Reach Extension: Why Dropknees Give You More Height
Dropping the knee:
- lengthens the working side of the body
- shortens the non-working side
- rotates the hips upward
- positions the torso closer to the target
This gives:
- greater vertical reach
- more controlled upward movement
- smoother transitions into high steps
You reach farther not because you stretch more,
but because rotation reshapes the body’s geometry.
8. Common Errors (and Why They Happen)
Error 1 — Collapsing the shoulder
Cause: hips not rotated enough → vector mismatches hold
Error 2 — Foot shearing off
Cause: force direction too horizontal → rubber doesn’t compress
Error 3 — Over-rotation
Cause: outside foot isn’t controlling hip rotation
Error 4 — Loss of balance during exit
Cause: CoM not repositioned before un-twisting
Error 5 — Trying to dropknee straight on a face hold
Cause: hold geometry doesn’t support inward force → friction loss
Most errors are geometry failures, not strength failures.
9. The Rule: Rotate to Lock, Rotate to Reach
Dropknees and twistlocks work because they:
- increase inward force
- reposition the CoM
- align the vector
- create triangulation
- stabilise the chain
- reduce arm load
Strength becomes secondary.
Geometry does the work.