The Problem With Vague Progress
Climbers often say:
- “I feel stronger.”
- “I think my endurance improved.”
- “I’m climbing better lately.”
These statements may be true.
But they are not measurements.
Without measurable variables, progress becomes emotional.
Emotion is unreliable.
Category 1: Force
Force is the most measurable physical variable in climbing.
It can be assessed through:
- Added load on a fixed edge
- Bodyweight percentage on a standard edge depth
- One-arm load capacity
- Maximal isometric force
Force is objective when:
- Edge depth is fixed
- Grip position is standardized
- Load increments are controlled
Force is less objective when:
- Hold size varies
- Friction conditions change
- Joint angle is inconsistent
Force measurement requires repeatability.
Category 2: Time Under Tension
Time can be measured precisely.
Examples:
- Hang duration
- Repeater interval structure
- Route time to failure
- Rest intervals
Time-based metrics are simple.
But they must be paired with controlled load.
Ten seconds on a 20mm edge is not the same as ten seconds on a jug.
Time alone does not define intensity.
Category 3: Volume & Density
Volume includes:
- Total hangs
- Total board attempts
- Total route laps
- Weekly session count
Density refers to:
- Work performed per unit of time
- Repetitions within fixed rest
Volume tracking is essential for:
- Managing fatigue
- Preventing overload spikes
- Understanding recovery debt
Volume is measurable.
But volume alone does not indicate improvement.
Category 4: Success Rate
Success rate measures:
- Number of successful attempts
- Completion of benchmark problems
- Send frequency
- Attempt-to-send ratio
This metric reflects:
- Performance
- Skill integration
- Applied strength
It is influenced by:
- Psychological state
- Route style
- Environmental factors
It measures outcome — not capacity.
Category 5: Subjective Metrics
Subjective data includes:
- Perceived exertion
- Finger soreness
- Elbow irritation
- Fatigue rating
- Confidence level
These are not objective.
But they are still valuable.
Subjective measures often predict:
- Injury risk
- Overtraining
- Recovery failure
They should be tracked — but interpreted cautiously.
What Cannot Be Measured Reliably
Some common misconceptions:
You cannot directly measure:
- “Climbing IQ”
- Mental toughness
- Tactical instinct
- Skin friction consistency
- Motivation stability
These influence performance,
but they are not clean metrics.
Trying to quantify them often produces noise.
The Environmental Variable Problem
Climbing performance fluctuates due to:
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Skin condition
- Sleep
- Stress
- Route style
This means performance tests are noisy.
Force tests are cleaner.
Outcome tests are messier.
Understanding this prevents overreaction.
Capacity vs Performance
A key distinction:
Capacity = what you can produce in a controlled test.
Performance = what you produce in real climbing.
Capacity is easier to measure.
Performance is more complex.
Confusing the two creates frustration.
The Core Principle
You can reliably measure:
- Force
- Time
- Volume
- Density
- Attempt outcomes
Everything else must be interpreted.
Progress becomes clearer when:
- Metrics are simple
- Testing is repeatable
- Variables are controlled
Measurement does not create progress.
But without measurement, progress is guesswork.