Training Protocols
No theory. Just execution.
This section contains structured climbing training protocols designed to be followed exactly as written. Each protocol is built around a specific tool or setup — hangboards, pinch blocks, cylinders, and other grip training devices.
You don’t need to interpret, adjust, or guess.
Pick your tool. Follow the protocol. Track your progress.
For underlying concepts, adaptation timelines, and training logic, refer to the Knowledge Hub. This section is purely practical.
Hangboards & Edges
Finger Testing Protocol (Basic): Measure Finger Strength on a Hangboard
This basic finger testing protocol shows how to measure your finger strength using a controlled max hang. Learn how to standardise your setup and track progress over time.
Density Hangs Protocol (Hangboard/lifting tool): Build Strength with Controlled Volume
Density hangs train finger strength through moderate intensity and higher volume. This protocol shows how to structure sets, manage fatigue, and build durable strength without reaching failure.
Max Hangs Protocol (Hangboard/lifting tool): Build Maximum Finger Strength
Max hangs train top-end finger strength using short, near-maximal efforts. This protocol shows exactly how to choose load, structure sets, and progress safely over time.
Repeaters Protocol (Hangboard/lifting tool): Build Finger Endurance & Repeatability
Repeaters train finger endurance by repeating submaximal hangs with short rest. This protocol shows exactly how to structure sets, choose the right load, and build repeatable force without failing early.
Pinch Blocks
Density Protocol (Pinch Block)
Density pinch training builds grip strength through controlled volume at moderate intensity. This protocol shows how to structure sets, manage fatigue, and build durable pinch strength over time.
Max Strength Protocol (Pinch Block)
Max pinch lifts build grip strength by applying near-maximal load through thumb opposition. This protocol shows exactly how to structure sets, choose the right load, and progress safely over time.
Rollers
Lift & Lower Protocol (Rolling Handle)
Lift & lower trains sloper strength through controlled movement, improving how force is applied during real climbing.
Controlled Holds Protocol (Rolling Handle)
Controlled holds train sloper strength by eliminating rotation and building true grip stability.
Density Holds Protocol (Rolling Handle)
Density holds on rolling handles build sloper endurance and control through repeated submaximal efforts.
Max Holds Protocol (rolling handle / sloper strength)
Max holds on rolling handles build top-end sloper strength through precise, near-maximal loading. Focus on control, not just force.