1. Most Fall Practice Is Done Wrong
When climbers “practice falling,” they usually:
- stiffen before letting go
- overgrip
- lock their hips
- brace shoulders
- jump away from the wall
- hesitate before committing
This forms defensive motor patterns—
habits that make climbing mechanically worse.
Correct fall training reduces fear without creating tension habits.
2. The Goal of Fall Training
Fall training should accomplish two things:
(1) Reduce limbic activation during unexpected movement
Less fear → less tension → better climbing.
(2) Improve movement quality during loss of control
You want your nervous system to stay loose, not defensive.
Fall training is not about “being brave.”
It’s about teaching your nervous system to stay non-defensive.
3. The Biggest Mistake: Practicing Fear, Not Falls
When you fall stiff or scared, the nervous system learns stress responses:
- tense before moving
- panic before loss of control
- overgrip when uncertain
- freeze instead of commit
If repeated, these become default movement patterns.
Most climbers unknowingly train fear into their climbing.
4. Fall Training Must Start With Zero Movement Noise
The nervous system must learn:
- soft
- loose
- predictable
- rhythmic
- non-braced
falling.
If the fall itself is chaotic, the learning is negative.
THE FALL TRAINING PROTOCOL (4 Levels)
To train falling without learning defensive movement, follow these levels in order.
LEVEL 1 — The Soft Drop (Static → Passive)
Goal: teach the body to relax during loss of support.
Protocol:
- Stand on a comfortable boulder start position (1–2 m high).
- Hold two jugs.
- Let go with zero jump.
- Drop straight down.
- Land with soft knees and relaxed arms.
- Repeat 10–15 times.
Key rules:
- No pushing off.
- No bracing.
- No hesitation.
- No mental preparation.
- Zero tension.
This teaches: falling = soft, not defensive.
LEVEL 2 — The Mini-Fall (Controlled → Low Noise)
Goal: introduce a small element of timing and unpredictability.
Protocol:
- Climb to a low height on easy holds.
- Move one hand or foot into a position that feels slightly unstable.
- Let go when you feel the instability.
- Fall without stiffening.
What you learn:
- smooth release
- relaxed upper body
- hip mobility during a fall
- breath consistency
This builds non-defensive release timing.
LEVEL 3 — The Dynamic Release (Moderate → Predictable)
Goal: maintain looseness during dynamic movement.
Protocol:
- Perform a small, easy dynamic move (swing).
- At the peak of the swing, randomly release.
- Drop and land softly.
Why it’s important:
- falling out of motion is where fear spikes
- climbers stiffen mid-air → bad habit
- dynamic falling requires rhythm + softness
You train the brain:
“Even if I’m moving, I stay soft.”
LEVEL 4 — The Real Fall (High → Controlled)
Goal: simulate a true climbing fall while preserving good movement.
Protocol:
- Climb a problem with 3–5 easy moves.
- Choose a safe, controlled point to fall from.
- At the chosen point, exhale → release.
- Keep the body relaxed throughout the fall.
- Land softly.
Crucial rule:
Never fall from a move you are emotionally stressed about.
That trains defensive patterns.
Fall only from planned points.
5. Never Combine Real Fear With Fall Training
This is the biggest misconception.
When you fall while scared, the brain learns:
- stiff = safe
- tension = control
- hesitation = protection
- defensive posture = survival
Your nervous system will apply this to every future movement.
Fall training must NEVER be done under fear.
Fear training is separate.
6. Fall Training Should Be 90% Softness, 10% Height
Most people do the opposite:
- 10% softness
- 90% height (trying to be brave)
This creates nothing but poor motor patterns.
True fall skill:
- soft
- elastic
- relaxed
- rhythmic
- consistent
- predictable
Even from higher positions.
7. Signs Your Fall Training Is Hurting You
Stop immediately if you see:
- shoulders bracing
- stiff legs
- hips pulled in
- overgripping before release
- panic breathing
- “jumping” away from the wall
- hesitation before letting go
These are defensive motor habits.
8. Integrating Fall Practice Into Regular Climbing
Use fall training:
at the start of the session
Reset fear baseline → better movement.
before dynamic climbs
Stabilise prediction.
during fear reduction phases
Helps nervous system generalise softness.
in outdoor preparation
Outdoor fear multiplies tension—soft falling counteracts it.
9. The Real Outcome of Proper Fall Training
When done correctly, fall training gives you:
- relaxed initiation
- rhythmic movement
- better dynamic timing
- less hesitation
- lower fear spikes
- better hip mobility
- softer catches
- predictable breathing
- improved flow
It makes your entire climbing system more elastic.
10. Key Insight
Falling practice is not about bravery.
It is about teaching your nervous system that losing control does not require tension.
Good fall training:
- reduces fear
- improves movement
- increases commitment
- preserves timing
- eliminates defensive patterns
- improves dynamic skill
- stabilises confidence
It builds a climber who is not reckless —
but mechanically unafraid.