Climbing movement is not only about strength and positioning.
Much of climbing — especially modern movement — is about using momentum intentionally and timing force perfectly.
Momentum allows you to:
- reach holds that static strength cannot access
- stabilise dynamic movement
- generate upward motion with minimal force
- transfer load between limbs efficiently
- conserve energy on steep terrain
- catch holds softly instead of “slapping” them
Timing is the control mechanism that keeps this momentum aligned with your CoM and your force vectors.
Together, momentum + timing form the dynamic backbone of climbing technique.
1. Momentum = Mass × Velocity
Momentum is defined as:
p = m × v
You do not generate momentum with power —
you generate momentum by accelerating your CoM, even slightly.
Mechanically:
- small CoM shifts produce small but useful momentum
- large accelerations produce large dynamic moves
- momentum can assist movement even at very low speeds
Most dynamic climbing is not explosive.
It’s micro-momentum applied with precision.
2. Static Strength Has Limits — Momentum Extends Them
Some moves are impossible to do statically because:
- friction would break
- the force vector demands a direction the body cannot hold slowly
- the CoM must travel through a “dead zone”
- joint angles lose leverage in the middle of the move
- a sloper cannot be loaded gradually
- a foot will slip if weighted too slowly
Momentum solves these constraints by:
- passing quickly through low-friction zones
- using inertia to maintain CoM trajectory
- bypassing mechanically weak joint angles
- reducing time under load
- allowing dynamic re-positioning of hips
Dynamic does not mean “wild.”
It means mechanically appropriate.
3. The CoM Dictates When Momentum Works
Momentum is only useful if directed through the CoM in a stable line.
If the CoM is misaligned:
- momentum pulls you off the wall
- swings increase
- catching becomes harder
- directional friction is lost
- timing windows shrink
If the CoM is aligned:
- momentum carries the body cleanly
- movement feels light
- deadpoints stick quietly
- stability lasts longer on catch
- foot pressure remains functional
The CoM is the anchor that determines whether momentum helps or destroys stability.
4. Timing: The Hidden Variable of Dynamic Movement
Timing in climbing means:
applying force at the exact moment when the kinetic chain is aligned and the CoM is in the optimal phase of its trajectory.
This includes:
- when to push with the legs
- when to release hands
- when to pull
- when to engage tension
- when to decelerate
- when to shift hips
- when to catch the hold
Small timing errors — even 50–100 milliseconds — cause:
- failed deadpoints
- missed catches
- foot cuts
- loss of friction
- over-gripping
- unnecessary power expenditure
Dynamic coordination is timing, not strength.
5. The “Float Phase” of Deadpoints
All deadpoints share the same structure:
-
Loading phase
You load feet and hands to create tension. -
Acceleration phase
You push and pull to accelerate the CoM upward. -
Float phase
The CoM moves upward with no hand tension.
This is the moment of lowest friction and highest vulnerability. -
Catch phase
The hands re-engage tension at the exact top of the trajectory.
If you catch too early → you sag and peel
If you catch too late → the CoM drops before contact
If you catch too hard → you slip because friction drops
The quietest dynos come from perfect float-phase timing.
6. Using Counter-Momentum to Reduce Swing
When you move dynamically, the body tends to swing.
Counter-momentum is how elite climbers control this.
Methods:
- flagging the free leg to oppose rotation
- pushing sideways with the foot to cancel lateral acceleration
- rotating the hips to realign the CoM path
- matching hands to stop horizontal drift
- catching with soft elbows to absorb shock
Swing is not reduced by strength —
it’s reduced by equal and opposite momentum vectors.
7. Timing Also Applies to Slow Movement
Even slow technique is full of timing:
- when you weight a foot
- when you rotate a hip
- when you shift the CoM
- when you release a hand
- when friction is highest
- when tension stabilises the edge
Slow movement is dynamic, just with low velocities.
The underlying physics is identical.
8. The Rule: Move When the Timing Window Opens
Every movement has a narrow timing window where mechanics align:
- force direction
- CoM trajectory
- friction
- joint leverage
- tension activation
- contact mechanics
The moment these align is when movement becomes effortless.
Elite climbers don’t guess.
They wait for these windows and move inside them.