1. Why Elbow Tendons Need Specific Prehab
Climbing overloads the elbow in two predictable ways:
1. Medial load (inside of elbow)
Flexor–pronator tendons get hammered by:
- crimping
- underclings
- lock-offs
- powerful pulls
- long squeezing on bad holds
2. Lateral load (outside of elbow)
Extensor–supinator tendons get irritated by:
- wrist extension
- slopers
- torqued sidepulls
- gastons
The elbow becomes vulnerable when:
- flexors overpower extensors
- wrist position collapses
- the forearm rotates without control
- lock-offs rely too much on biceps
- tendons fatigue faster than muscles
This routine fixes those exact failure points.
2. The Elbow Tendon Resilience Routine (8–12 Minutes)
Perform 2–4 times per week.
Load should be controlled, never explosive.
Phase 1 — Tissue Preparation (1–2 minutes)
Purpose: increase blood flow + reduce tendon friction.
Exercise 1 — Wrist Flexor Stretch (gentle)
- 20–30 seconds
- Fingers pointing down
- Stretch should feel mild, not deep
Exercise 2 — Wrist Extensor Stretch
- 20–30 seconds
- Bend wrist down gently
- Keep elbow straight
Exercise 3 — Tendon Glides
- 5–8 light cycles
(Straight → Hook → Fist → Tabletop → Flat Fist)
Phase 2 — Extensor Strength (2–3 minutes)
Prevents lateral elbow pain and protects wrist stability.
Exercise 4 — Reverse Wrist Curls
- 10–15 slow reps
- 3-second eccentric
Exercise 5 — Hammer Rotations (Supination/Pronation)
Use a hammer, dumbbell, or a screwdriver.
- 8–10 reps each direction
- Move slowly and under control
This strengthens the extensor–supinator complex → crucial for slopers and sidepulls.
Phase 3 — Flexor–Pronator Strength (2–3 minutes)
Prevents medial elbow pain.
Exercise 6 — Wrist Curls (Light)
- 10–15 reps
- Slow and full range
Exercise 7 — Pronation Isometrics
Press palm down gently into resistance (other hand, band, or wall).
- 5 seconds × 3 reps
This stabilizes the tendon during crimping and hard pulls.
Phase 4 — Isometric Tendon Loading (2–3 minutes)
Purpose: strengthen the tendon itself (not the muscle).
Exercise 8 — Mid-Range Hold (Wrist Neutral)
Hold a light weight (1–3kg) with wrist neutral.
- 20–30 seconds × 2
- No pain >2/10
Exercise 9 — Wrist Extension Isometric
- 10–15 seconds × 2
- Very light weight or band
Isometrics reduce pain and build tendon stiffness.
Optional Phase 5 — Climbing-Specific Activation (1 minute)
Use before climbing.
Exercise 10 — Light Half-Crimp Pulls
- 3 slow pulls to ~50% effort
Exercise 11 — Sloper Press
- 1–2 × 8 seconds
- Focus on wrist stability → elbow alignment follows
3. Progression Rules
Increase load only when:
- there is no sharp pain
- morning irritation is minimal
- tendon stiffness decreases after warm-up
- rotation feels stable
- no next-day increase in soreness
Progress by:
- adding reps
- slower lowering
- slightly heavier weight
- increased isometric hold times
Never progress by “going hard.”
Progress by going cleaner.
4. How to Use This Routine
On climbing days
Do Phase 1 + Phase 5 only (3–4 minutes).
This primes the elbow for pulling and wrist positioning.
On rest days
Do the full routine (8–12 minutes).
This is where tendon adaptation happens.
During injury recovery
Use this routine in the transition between rehab and full climbing load.
5. Signs You Need More Elbow Prehab
Increase frequency if:
- inside elbow pain after crimps
- outside elbow pain after slopers
- forearm fatigue early in the session
- wrist collapsing under load
- pain when rotating a door handle
- irritation during lock-offs
- pain when lifting objects with a pronated grip
These are early-warning signs — this routine directly addresses them.