Deadpoints are not “small dynos” or “precision jumps.”
Mechanically, a deadpoint is:
a controlled acceleration of the CoM followed by a brief zero-gravity moment where the next hold is caught with minimal force.
Deadpoints work because of timing, not power.
Most climbers fail not because they can’t jump, but because:
- the CoM path is wrong
- the load sequence is wrong
- the float phase is mistimed
- the catch is mistimed
- the hips destabilize the vector
- friction collapses during transition
This chapter breaks the deadpoint into its mechanical phases so it becomes predictable, quiet, and surprisingly easy.
1. The Deadpoint Is a Four-Phase System
Every deadpoint — even micro deadpoints — follows the same physics:
Phase 1 — Preload (Tension + Vector Alignment)
You create tension through the kinetic chain:
- feet drive downward and inward
- hands pull or stabilize
- hips align the global force vector
- CoM compresses like a spring
If preload is wrong, nothing afterward can save the move.
Phase 2 — Acceleration (Generating CoM Velocity)
You accelerate the CoM in the direction of the target hold.
Key mechanics:
- legs provide most of the power
- arms mostly guide direction
- hips stay close to keep the vector stable
- acceleration must be controlled, not explosive
Too much power throws the CoM off-axis.
Too little power fails to reach float.
Phase 3 — Float Phase (Zero Load)
This is where the actual “deadpoint” happens.
- CoM reaches maximum height
- hands experience minimal load
- friction is lowest
- body tension temporarily relaxes
- the system is extremely sensitive
Catching during the float is ideal.
Catching before or after drastically reduces success.
Phase 4 — Catch + Re-Engagement
You grab the hold with:
- soft hands
- slight elbow bend
- re-engaging tension after contact
- absorbing force through shoulders + core
- letting hips track the CoM path
A hard catch increases tangential force → you slip.
A soft catch increases normal force → you stick.
Elite climbers look “quiet” because their catch is perfectly timed with the CoM deceleration.
2. The CoM Path Determines Whether the Move Is Possible
The CoM must travel in a clean, predictable arc:
- straight toward the target
- minimal lateral deviation
- minimal unnecessary rotation
- hips following the vector
- shoulders aligned beneath the hold
A deadpoint doesn’t fail because the climber is “weak.”
It fails because the CoM path is misaligned by 5–10°.
Small errors = big failures.
3. Hip Position Controls the Force Vector
Hips determine both:
- direction of acceleration
- direction of the catch
- where the CoM will “float”
- how friction behaves on the initial handholds
- whether feet stay or cut
Hip errors:
- hips too far → sling effect, excessive swing
- hips too square → misaligned vector, slip
- hips too low → insufficient upward velocity
- hips too high → premature de-weighting of holds
Elite climbers begin every deadpoint by shaping hip geometry, not pulling with arms.
4. Footwork Defines the Success of the Launch
Feet generate most of the usable acceleration.
Key principles:
- pressure must ramp up smoothly during preload
- pressure must release smoothly during acceleration
- the direction of push determines the CoM path
- slipping feet destroy the vector
- smears require gradual loading (rubber deformation)
- small edges require precise direction (horizontal force kills them)
Good deadpoints = strong foot technique.
Poor deadpoints = arm lunges.
5. Timing Determines Whether You Stick or Peel
Timing has two critical windows:
(1) Takeoff timing
You push at the exact moment tension peaks.
Push too early → no tension.
Push too late → system collapses.
(2) Catch timing
You catch when:
- CoM velocity is near zero
- hands are light
- shoulders are aligned
- friction is adequate
Early catch → sag + slip.
Late catch → downward acceleration beats friction.
Hard catch → tangential force exceeds sloper capacity.
Timing, not strength, is decisive.
6. The “Quiet Deadpoint” Is the Signature of Good Mechanics
A mechanically perfect deadpoint:
- has no loud catch
- has no wild swing
- has no sudden tension spikes
- uses small, controlled acceleration
- feels light and predictable
- requires minimal grip strength
This is not luck or experience — it is:
- correct preload
- correct vector
- correct tension chain
- correct float timing
- correct catch softness
Most climbers could stick far harder moves simply by quieting the deadpoint.
7. Micro Deadpoints Are Everywhere
Deadpoints are not rare dynamic moves.
They occur constantly whenever:
- a foot is too low to step statically
- a handhold is slightly out of reach
- friction will not allow slow movement
- leverage decreases mid-move
- a sloper must be “reset”
- a foot switch requires de-weighting
All of these are mini deadpoints.
Learning the mechanics makes every move smoother.
8. The Rule: Deadpoints Are Timing + Geometry, Not Strength
Strength only amplifies what geometry and timing permit.
Correct deadpoint mechanics:
- CoM first
- hips align
- feet initiate
- preload builds
- acceleration directs
- float stabilizes
- catch softens
- tension re-engages
This is why elite climbers look effortless:
the mechanics, not the muscles, do the heavy lifting.