What Power Actually Is
In physics:
Power = Force × Velocity
In climbing:
Power is the ability to apply high force quickly.
It is not:
- Random dynamic movement
- High-rep campus ladders
- Getting pumped on big moves
True power training improves:
- Recruitment speed
- Rate of force development (RFD)
- Force coordination under time pressure
If maximal force drops during a “power phase,” the programming is flawed.
Why Climbers Lose Strength During Power Blocks
Common mistakes:
- Replacing max hangs with only dynamic board sessions
- Adding volume instead of preserving intensity
- Accumulating fatigue before dynamic efforts
- Treating power sessions as conditioning
Power requires freshness.
If fatigue is high, velocity drops.
If velocity drops, stimulus shifts.
You are no longer training power — you are training tired movement.
The Two Components of Power
Power training has two layers:
1. Maximal Force Base
If force ceiling increases, potential power increases.
Without maximal strength:
Power is capped.
This is why elite climbers maintain some max strength stimulus year-round.
2. Rate of Force Development
RFD is how quickly you reach peak force.
Improved RFD means:
- Faster latching
- More controlled dynamic moves
- Better deadpoint precision
- Reduced time under high strain
RFD requires:
- High intent
- Short efforts
- Full recovery
How to Structure a Power Phase
A power phase should:
- Reduce overall volume
- Preserve maximal intensity
- Emphasize short, explosive efforts
Typical frequency:
1–2 dedicated power sessions per week.
Session Structure Example
1. Warm-Up
Progressive loading.
Include some low-intensity dynamic movement.
2. Maximal Strength Primer (Optional but Recommended)
2–4 sets of:
- Heavy max hangs
or - High-intensity isometrics
Purpose:
Maintain neural recruitment ceiling.
Keep volume low.
3. Primary Power Work
Choose 1–2 exercises:
- Limit dynamic board problems
- Double-move sequences
- Controlled campus touches (low volume)
- Explosive lock-off transitions
Parameters:
- 3–6 total problems
- 2–4 attempts each
- Full rest (2–4 minutes)
- Stop when speed drops
Speed is the metric.
When movement slows, power stimulus is gone.
Volume Control Is Critical
Power sessions should feel:
- Sharp
- Controlled
- Short
Not long and draining.
If you leave:
- Pumped
- Exhausted
- With declining attempt quality
Volume was too high.
Power degrades quickly under fatigue.
Weekly Integration
If maintaining strength during power phase:
Example week:
Day 1 – Max strength (low volume)
Day 3 – Power session
Day 5 – Light skill or moderate routes
Do not stack:
Max hangs + full power session + hard routes in consecutive days.
Neural fatigue accumulates.
Signs You Are Preserving Strength
During power block:
- Max hang numbers stay stable
- Finger integrity feels solid
- Dynamic control improves
- Board moves feel sharper
If max hang numbers drop significantly:
Volume is too high.
Or recovery is insufficient.
Why Power Feels Productive — and Dangerous
Dynamic sessions are stimulating.
They feel:
- Athletic
- Expressive
- Engaging
But they also create:
- High peak tendon force
- Rapid loading rates
- Elevated injury risk
Without a strength base, power becomes risky.
Without structural preparation, rapid force exceeds tolerance.
The Core Principle
Power does not replace strength.
Power expresses strength.
To build power without losing strength:
- Maintain a high-force stimulus
- Reduce volume
- Protect recovery
- Prioritize velocity over fatigue
Power training should sharpen your system — not exhaust it.