1. What Shoulder Impingement Actually Is
Shoulder impingement is NOT “a random pinch.”
It is a mechanical conflict inside the shoulder.
Specifically:
The humeral head fails to stay centered in the socket
because the scapula (shoulder blade) is not positioned correctly.
When alignment is lost:
- rotator cuff tendons
- biceps tendon
- bursa
- joint capsule
…get compressed or irritated during movement.
This is why impingement almost always feels like:
- pinching
- catching
- sharp pain in certain angles
- weakness in overhead pulling
It is a biomechanics issue — not inflammation, not weakness.
2. How Shoulder Impingement Happens in Climbers
Three mechanical failures create almost all cases:
1. Poor Scapular Control (root cause)
Scapula = arm’s foundation.
If the scapula doesn’t:
- retract (move inward)
- depress (move downward)
- upwardly rotate (rotate with overhead arm)
→ the humeral head rides upward and forward
→ impingement under load.
This is the #1 cause.
2. Pulling with Internal Rotation (dangerous vector)
Internal rotation = elbow pointed outward, shoulder rolled inward.
The combination of:
- high force
- poor scapular support
- internal rotation
…is the perfect storm for impingement.
Common situations:
- sidepulls
- gastons
- compressions
- catching swings with elbow flared
- underclings with rounded upper back
3. Catching Swings Without Stabilizing First
Dynamic catches spike force + destabilize the scapula.
If your shoulder is:
- internally rotated
- protracted (shoulder blade forward)
- upwardly shrugged
…then catching a swing produces massive shear and compression.
3. Pain Pattern: What Shoulder Impingement Feels Like
Shoulder impingement has one of the clearest pain signatures in climbing:
- pinching pain when lifting arm
- pain on sidepulls
- pain on gastons
- pain catching a swing
- pain when arm is overhead
- pain when reaching behind head
- weakness on pulling
- “clicking” or “catching” sensation
- worse with volume, better with rest
If pain decreases with scapular activation → it’s impingement.
4. Yellow & Red Flags
Yellow Flags
- pain during overhead reach
- slight pinching in gastons
- mild instability
- clicking without sharp pain
- improves with warm-up
→ reduce load + fix technique.
Red Flags
- sharp pain
- weakness lifting arm
- pain radiating into biceps
- catching + locking sensation
- loss of shoulder stability
→ stop climbing temporarily.
5. Technique Errors That Cause Shoulder Impingement
1. Elbow flaring on sidepulls
Forces shoulder into internal rotation.
2. Catching swings with poor scapular support
Shoulder absorbs all shock → humeral head shifts.
3. Pulling before engaging scapula
Arm moves without foundation → impingement.
4. Climbing with rounded upper back
Thoracic spine flexion reduces shoulder space.
5. Overreaching with locked shoulder
No joint space → compression increases.
6. Compression climbing without trunk support
Arms internally rotate under high load.
Technique is the primary factor — not strength.
6. Immediate Actions (0–7 days)
1. Reduce overhead load (not full rest)
Total rest weakens stabilizers.
2. Light isometrics for rotator cuff
20–40%, 20–30 seconds → stabilizes humeral head.
3. Scapula-only movements
No arm movement — just scapular positioning.
4. Avoid dynamic moves
Especially swings and compressions.
5. Avoid internal rotation under load
Elbow points forward, not outward.
Pain should decrease with gentle scapula control.
7. Rehab Plan — The Three-Phase Model
Phase 1 — Stability Before Strength (1–2 weeks)
Goal: teach shoulder to center the humeral head again.
Exercises:
- scapular depression holds
- scapular retraction pulses
- external rotation isometrics
- “packing” drill (scapula sets arm foundation)
Criteria to progress:
→ pain ≤3/10 with overhead reach
Phase 2 — Rotator Cuff + Scapular Strength (3–8 weeks)
Goal: give the shoulder enough stability to handle climbing forces.
Exercises:
- external rotation eccentrics (slow lowering)
- YTWL patterns (scapular control)
- serratus activation (wall slides)
- lower-trap pulses
- isometric overhead holds with light load
Protocol:
- 3× week
- 8–12 reps
- 3–5 second eccentrics
- low pain (<3/10)
Criteria to progress:
→ no pinching in overhead position
Phase 3 — Progressive Return to Load (6–12 weeks)
Goal: restore full climbing load tolerance.
Steps:
- controlled sidepulls
- controlled gastons (low intensity)
- slow deadpoint catches
- progressive lock-offs
- 2–5% weekly load increases
Criteria to return fully:
- no pinching in any angle
- no weakness
- no clicking
- no pain next morning
8. Return-to-Climbing Protocol
Step 1
Vertical climbing, no sidepulls or gastons.
Step 2
Open-hand climbing, controlled positions.
Step 3
Light sidepulls with good scapula engagement.
Step 4
Medium gastons with slow, controlled pulls.
Step 5
Light dynamic moves with scapula-first technique.
Step 6
Steep terrain + harder sidepulls.
Step 7
Full load climbing, dynamic catches allowed.
If pain returns → regress to previous step.
9. Long-Term Prehab (5 minutes)
- 8–12 external rotation reps
- 10 scapular depressions
- 10 YTWL reps
- 10 serratus wall slides
- 10 controlled sidepulls (technique drill)
This keeps shoulder mechanics safe under load.
10. When to Seek Professional Help
- sharp pain at rest
- sudden weakness
- clicking + locking
- arm cannot lift overhead
- pain persists >6–8 weeks
- nerve-like pain or tingling