Foot cuts are not “mistakes.”
They are kinetic chain disruptions that reveal whether your system can maintain:
- CoM control
- rotational stability
- force direction
- tension continuity
- timing discipline
A foot cut is simply a moment where:
the lower-body link of the kinetic chain disconnects, and the upper body must temporarily carry all load.
Good climbers re-engage their feet smoothly, restoring the chain with minimal swing or tension spike.
Beginners collapse into chaos.
This chapter explains exactly how foot cuts form — and how to regain stability fast.
1. A Foot Cut Is a Torque Event, Not a Strength Failure
Feet cut for one mechanical reason:
the CoM shifts in a direction the feet can no longer counterforce.
Common triggers:
- dynamic movement
- deadpoints with lateral drift
- poor foot vector
- smears loading too quickly
- feet placed above CoM during acceleration
- hips drifting outward
- rotation created by an off-axis pull
The issue is force direction, not “weak core.”
The foot didn’t “slip” — the system generated torque the foot could not oppose.
2. The System’s Behavior During a Foot Cut
The moment feet detach:
- CoM moves outward
- shoulder torque increases sharply
- wrist angle must absorb shear
- hip rotation accelerates
- tension mode switches to pure upper-body
- friction on handholds decreases
- rotational momentum builds
This is why beginners panic:
the system suddenly becomes unstable in every dimension.
Elite climbers don’t panic because they understand how to rebuild the chain.
3. The First Priority: Stop Rotation Before Re-Engaging Feet
Rotation is your main enemy during a foot cut.
To halt rotational acceleration:
- pull slightly inward, not upward
- angle the elbow under the handhold
- keep hips close to the wall
- engage the obliques to stop torso twist
- slightly flex the wrist to increase friction
- keep legs compact to reduce rotational inertia
If you extend your legs outward → rotation increases.
If you flare your elbows → torque increases.
If you tense too hard → friction collapses.
The goal is calm deceleration, not force.
4. Re-Engagement Begins With the Hips, Not the Feet
Most climbers try to “get a foot back on” immediately.
This is backwards.
Mechanically, you must first:
bring the hips back under the CoM path.
Why:
- hips control force direction
- hips control rotation
- hips set the foot’s vector
- hips determine whether the foot will stick
- feet cannot create friction if hips are off-axis
Sequence:
- stop rotation
- swing hips inward
- realign CoM
- then place the foot
If the hips are not aligned, any foot you place will slip instantly.
5. The Foot Must Be Placed Passively, Not Kicked
Bad re-engagement = kicking the foothold.
Why it fails:
- rubber hits too fast → friction doesn’t build
- pressure spikes → shear increases
- CoM is still drifting → vector mismatch
- the foot lands at the wrong angle
Good re-engagement:
- place foot lightly
- increase pressure gradually
- rotate the rubber into the angle
- let the hip drive friction, not the leg
- maintain inward vector
A good foot placement makes zero sound.
6. The Foot That Re-Engages First Determines System Recovery
Order matters:
Inside foot first
When you need to stop rotation and gain stability.
Outside foot first
When you need to extend the reach or maintain side tension.
High foot first
When CoM must rise to restore alignment.
Low foot first
When rotation must be absorbed before moving upward.
Correct sequencing stabilizes the system.
Incorrect sequencing destabilizes it further.
7. Hands Should Not Pull More to Compensate
During a foot cut, most climbers:
- pull harder
- overgrip
- flare elbows
- tense shoulders
- squeeze the wall
This accelerates failure.
Correct upper-body behavior:
- elbows stay under the holds
- shoulders stay stacked
- wrists maintain vector
- grip stays consistent, not tighter
- arms absorb just enough load to reduce swing
Hands stabilize —
they do not replace missing feet.
8. Controlled Swing Is Better Than Zero Swing
Trying to eliminate swing is a mistake.
Better approach:
reduce swing to a predictable amplitude, then re-engage feet at the swing’s apex or neutral point.
This gives:
- maximum foot contact time
- lowest tangential forces
- best friction conditions
- lowest CoM velocity
Re-engaging during high-speed phases → instant slip.
Re-engaging at the slowest point → stability.
This is timing, not strength.
9. Controlled Re-Engagement Rebuilds the Kinetic Chain
Once the foot sticks:
- CoM stabilizes
- rotation stops
- torque decreases
- shoulder load drops
- friction increases
- the chain reconnects
- movement becomes precise again
The system transitions back to:
foot → hip → core → shoulder → hand
The difference between beginners and experts is not force —
it’s how fast they rebuild the chain.
10. The Rule: Hips First, Foot Second, Tension Last
Correct re-engagement sequence:
- Stop rotation (upper body + obliques + quiet hands)
- Swing hips inward (restore the vector)
- Place foot lightly (no kicking)
- Gradually load the foot (rubber deformation)
- Re-establish full tension chain
- Move when system is stable
Beginners reverse this:
foot → panic → overgrip → rotation → slip.
Experts do:
hips → foot → chain → continuation.