Choosing the right starting load is one of the most important decisions in finger training.
Most climbers either start too heavy because they can hang it once, or too light because they fear injury.
Both approaches stall progress.
A correct starting load respects tendon adaptation timelines, keeps intensity stable, and sets up predictable progression.
This article explains how to choose that load — without guesswork or ego.
1. Your starting load must match your weakest link
Finger performance is limited by:
- muscle
- tendon stiffness
- pulleys
- grip angle stability
You will naturally choose a load based on your muscle strength, because that’s what you feel.
But the starting load must be based on your tendon’s ability, because that’s what determines adaptation.
If your muscle can hang 105%, but your tendon can only handle 85% repeatedly,
→ 85% is your real starting load.
2. “If I can hang it once, I can train it” is the worst rule in finger training
One single successful rep is meaningless for selecting a training weight.
Your starting load must be repeatable:
- rep 1 stable
- rep 2 similar
- rep 3 predictable
If rep 1 is fine but rep 2 collapses, your starting load is too high.
The goal is not finding the “heaviest load you can touch.”
The goal is finding the lowest load that your tendon can cycle without losing form or force.
3. The real test for a safe starting load
To choose your starting load, ask only one question:
“Can I repeat this under identical conditions?”
If the answer is:
- Clearly yes → too light
- Yes, with slight fatigue → correct
- Probably not → too heavy
Simple. Reliable. Nearly impossible to fake.
This method works because it measures tendon tolerance, not muscle expression.
4. The sweet spot: stable force with mild fatigue
Your starting load should feel like this:
- stable grip
- consistent joint angle
- mild forearm fatigue
- slight force drop between reps
- no sharp tension in fingers
- no noticeable strain in a single pulley
If the load feels “easy,” it’s not stimulating.
If it feels “strong,” it’s too close to your max.
Proper starting loads feel almost boring —
and that’s exactly why they work.
5. What happens when you start too heavy
Starting too heavy does not make you stronger faster.
It destroys repeatability and blocks tendon adaptation.
You will see:
- force dropping quickly rep to rep
- unpredictable soreness
- swelling the next morning
- inconsistent session-to-session performance
These are signs you’re training around your tendons, not with them.
Heavy loads without remodeling create fragile strength.
6. What happens when you start too light
Starting too light feels safe, but slows progress to a crawl.
If the load doesn’t:
- create mild fatigue
- require controlled form
- challenge joint angles
… then it produces no adaptation signal.
Light loads teach you technique, not strength.
The longer you stay too light, the later real progress starts.
Putting it all together
Your starting load must be:
- repeatable
- mildly fatiguing
- structurally stable
- consistent across 2–3 reps
- low enough to avoid overload
- high enough to stimulate remodeling
Most climbers choose loads that test them.
Effective climbers choose loads that build them.
What comes next
Now that you know how to select a safe and productive starting load, the next step is to understand how to measure force consistency during a session:
Next article:
How to Monitor Force Consistency (Even Without Equipment)
→ teaches you how to read your own performance patterns
→ determines whether you should progress, maintain, or deload
→ and completes the “Principles” cluster