1. Why Climbers Need Knee Torque Protection
Climbing knees don’t get injured from “impact” — they get injured from rotation.
Most knee pain comes from:
- twisting while foot is fixed
- dropknees with poor hip mobility
- heel-hooks that torque the knee inward
- high steps without hip stability
- locking the knee inwards under tension
The knee is a hinge joint — it tolerates flexion/extension,
but it hates internal rotation + side torque.
This routine strengthens:
- glute medius (hip stability)
- deep hip rotators
- external rotators
- VMO (inner quad)
- hamstrings (posterior chain balance)
These muscles prevent the knee from collapsing inward under torque.
2. The Knee Torque Protection Routine (6–10 Minutes)
Do this 2–4× per week.
Perfect as warm-up, cooldown, or rest-day prehab.
Phase 1 — Hip Activation (2 minutes)
Purpose: get the muscles working that protect the knee.
Exercise 1 — Clamshells (with band)
- 12–15 reps each side
- Keep feet together
- Slow 2–3 sec lowering
This activates the deep hip external rotators.
Exercise 2 — Banded Hip Abductions
- 12–15 reps
- Toes pointing forward
- Focus on glute medius
Critical for preventing knee collapse during dropknees.
Phase 2 — Rotational Control (2–3 minutes)
Purpose: build strength for twisting moves.
Exercise 3 — Internal–External Rotation (Seated, Band)
- 10 slow reps each direction
- Keep knee fixed; rotate from the hip
This teaches the hip to take the torque instead of the knee.
Exercise 4 — Standing Hip Rotation Holds
- 10 seconds × 2 each side
- Rotate leg outward while knee stays aligned
Simulates the force pattern of dropknees and heel-hooks.
Phase 3 — Alignment Strength (2–3 minutes)
Purpose: reinforce clean knee tracking under load.
Exercise 5 — Single-Leg Balance with Knee Control
- 20–30 seconds
- Keep knee pointing over toes
- Add slight torso movement to challenge control
Improves real climbing stability on high steps.
Exercise 6 — Step-Downs (Slow)
- 6–10 reps per leg
- Move slowly, no hip collapse
One of the best exercises for knee safety in climbing.
Phase 4 — Climbing-Specific Torque Prep (1–2 minutes)
Purpose: prepare knees for twisting forces.
Exercise 7 — Dropknee Position Hold
- 10 seconds per side
- Mild range, no pain
Teaches the hip (not knee) to take rotational stress.
Exercise 8 — Light Heel-Hook Activation
- 2 × 8 seconds
- Engage hamstring and glute first → protect knee
Perfect drill before sessions with heel-hooks or compression.
3. Progression Rules
Increase load only when:
- knee tracks cleanly during step-downs
- no pinching or sharp sensations
- hip feels engaged rather than knee
- no next-day swelling or irritation
Progress options:
- add band resistance
- slow down tempo
- increase hold durations
- increase range in dropknee position
- add slight instability (cushion, pad)
Never progress via pain — knee torque adapts slowly.
4. When to Use This Routine
Before climbing
Perfect for sessions with:
- dropknees
- heel-hooks
- compression moves
- high steps
Use Phase 1 + Phase 4 (3–4 min).
On rest days
Use full routine (6–10 min) for long-term protection.
During irritation
Use the routine daily but avoid deep dropknees until clean tracking returns.
5. Signs You Need More Knee Prehab
- knee twisting discomfort
- pinching during dropknees
- knee falling inward during step-downs
- weakness during heel-hooks
- hip fatigue faster than expected
- unstable feeling on high steps
- knee clicks under torque
- medial knee tightness after climbing
These are all hip weakness signals — not knee problems.
This routine fixes them.