Why Finger Strength Is Worth Measuring
Among all physical variables in climbing, finger strength is:
- Highly relevant
- Relatively isolatable
- Measurable under controlled conditions
It strongly correlates with:
- Bouldering performance
- Small edge tolerance
- Applied force potential
But measurement must be standardized.
Otherwise, numbers lie.
Step 1: Fix the Edge
Testing requires a consistent edge depth.
Most commonly:
- 20mm flat edge
- Fixed joint position
- Standardized grip (half crimp, no thumb unless defined)
Edge depth variation of even 1–2 mm alters load capacity.
Do not switch between boards.
Do not test on random holds.
Control the environment.
Step 2: Define the Grip Position
Grip must be identical each test.
Common testing grip:
- Half crimp
- Thumb off
- Consistent finger positioning
- Elbow slightly flexed (not locked out)
Changing:
- Thumb usage
- Wrist angle
- Elbow extension
changes torque and output.
Consistency > ego.
Step 3: Choose the Load Metric
Two common approaches:
Absolute Load
Bodyweight + added weight
Simple.
Direct.
Comparable over time.
Relative Load (% Bodyweight)
Useful for:
- Comparing athletes
- Monitoring weight fluctuations
For individual tracking,
absolute load is usually sufficient.
Step 4: Define the Duration
Common strength test:
- 5–7 second maximal hang
Longer durations shift toward endurance.
Shorter durations increase variability.
Choose one duration.
Keep it constant.
Step 5: Rest Intervals
Full recovery is essential.
Rest at least:
- 2–3 minutes between attempts
Insufficient rest reduces neural output
and distorts results.
Testing is not training.
Step 6: Warm-Up Standardization
Always:
- Use identical warm-up sequence
- Include progressive submax hangs
- Avoid fatigue accumulation
Testing without warm-up consistency increases variability.
Testing Frequency
Testing too often increases noise.
Recommended:
- Every 4–6 weeks during strength blocks
- At end of block
- After deload week
Do not test weekly.
You measure readiness, not adaptation.
Error Margin Awareness
Expect natural fluctuation of:
±2–5%
If your max hang is 100 kg,
a 2 kg difference may be noise.
Look for:
Sustained increases across multiple sessions.
When Not to Test
Avoid testing when:
- Skin is compromised
- Sleep is poor
- Elbow irritation exists
- High fatigue week just ended
Testing under fatigue creates false decline perception.
What the Number Actually Means
Max hang measures:
- Peak isometric finger force
- Neural recruitment capacity
- Edge-specific strength
It does not measure:
- Power
- Endurance
- Sloper control
- Movement efficiency
It measures one layer.
Interpret it within context.
The Core Principle
Finger strength is measurable —
if edge, grip, load, duration and recovery are standardized.
Without control,
numbers become psychological artifacts.
With control,
they become powerful programming feedback.