The Metric Confusion Problem
A climber improves their max hang by 5 kg.
But their outdoor grade does not change.
They conclude:
“Hangboarding doesn’t work.”
Or:
A climber sends a harder route without increasing strength numbers.
They conclude:
“Strength doesn’t matter.”
Both interpretations are incomplete.
Because they are confusing three different layers:
- Output
- Capacity
- Performance
1️⃣ Output — What You Can Produce
Output is a controlled expression of force or effort.
Examples:
- Maximum hang load
- Peak pull-up load
- Board benchmark at fixed angle
- Contact strength test
Output is measured in controlled conditions.
It reflects:
- Neural recruitment
- Mechanical force production
- Specific joint angle strength
Output is the cleanest metric.
But it is narrow.
2️⃣ Capacity — What You Can Sustain
Capacity reflects repeatability.
Examples:
- Number of hard boulders in a session
- Time to pump
- 4x4 performance
- Density tolerance
Capacity includes:
- Metabolic efficiency
- Tissue durability
- Fatigue resistance
Capacity is broader than output.
But harder to isolate cleanly.
3️⃣ Performance — What You Execute
Performance is the final outcome.
Examples:
- Outdoor send grade
- Competition result
- Project success rate
Performance depends on:
- Output
- Capacity
- Skill
- Tactics
- Psychological state
- Environmental variables
Performance is the most complex layer.
And the noisiest.
Why Output Gains Don’t Always Increase Performance
Improving max hang increases force ceiling.
But performance may still be limited by:
- Movement inefficiency
- Route reading
- Tactical pacing
- Fear of falling
- Poor recovery between attempts
Output is potential.
Performance is application.
Why Performance Can Improve Without Output Gains
Sometimes:
- Efficiency improves
- Beta improves
- Tactics improve
- Psychological barriers decrease
This increases performance without changing force capacity.
Capacity and skill can compensate for stable output.
The Directional Relationship
The layers interact:
Output → increases potential ceiling
Capacity → increases usable percentage of that ceiling
Skill → determines how efficiently it is expressed
Psychology → determines whether it is accessed
All feed performance.
But improving one does not guarantee immediate improvement in another.
The Testing Error
Many climbers test output weekly.
Then judge performance based on small fluctuations.
But output varies due to:
- Fatigue
- Skin
- Sleep
- Temperature
Performance varies even more.
Short-term noise must not dictate long-term programming.
Time Horizons Matter
Neural output can improve in weeks.
Structural capacity may take months.
Performance gains may lag behind both.
Impatience leads to:
- Program hopping
- Tool switching
- Volume spikes
- Overcorrection
Misinterpreting the layer causes instability.
Practical Application
When evaluating progress, ask:
- Did output increase?
- Did capacity increase?
- Did performance increase?
If only one changed, identify which layer was trained.
Align expectation with adaptation.
The Core Principle
Output is what you can produce.
Capacity is how often you can produce it.
Performance is what you successfully execute.
Confuse these layers, and metrics become misleading.
Separate them, and progress becomes understandable.