1. Why Return-to-Climbing Fails for Most Climbers
Most climbers:
- return too fast
- climb “normally” as soon as pain decreases
- mix intensity and volume too soon
- test small edges or dynamic moves before tissue is ready
- confuse pain reduction with tissue readiness
Pain decreases quickly.
Tendon capacity does not.
A safe return must follow mechanical principles, not “feels okay.”
2. The 3 Variables You Must Control
Every climb exposes tissue to three load dimensions:
1. Intensity
How much force per move.
(Small edges, gastons, lock-offs, max boulders.)
2. Volume
How many moves or how long the session lasts.
(Endurance circuits, long sessions.)
3. Complexity
How chaotic or unstable the movement is.
(Dynos, twists, dropknees, board climbing.)
A safe return increases one variable at a time.
3. The 7-Step Return-to-Climbing Ladder
This model works for all injuries — fingers, elbows, shoulders, knees, ankles.
Step 1 — Pain-Free Daily Movement
Walking, gripping, lifting light objects, raising arms, rotating wrist, etc.
No sharp pain, no morning stiffness.
Criteria to advance:
- Pain ≤ 1/10
- No morning irritation
- Full range of motion
Step 2 — Controlled Strength Work (Isometrics → Eccentrics)
From rehab:
- 20–40% isometrics
- Slow eccentrics
- Stability drills
Criteria:
- Pain stable or decreasing
- No next-day irritation
- Good control with basic load
Step 3 — Light Climbing (Vertical, Large Holds)
- Open-hand only
- Neutral wrist/shoulder/knee angles
- Zero dynamic movement
- No small edges
- Short sessions (30–45 min)
Criteria:
- Pain ≤ 2/10 during session
- No increase next morning
- Movement feels controlled
Step 4 — Moderate Climbing (Technique Focus)
- Vertical + slightly overhanging
- Medium holds
- Half-crimp allowed (fingers)
- Controlled sidepulls/gastons (shoulder/elbow)
- No twisting (knees)
- No awkward landings (ankle)
Criteria:
- Pain stable at ≤2/10
- No next-day stiffness
- Feeling of stability and precision
Step 5 — Strength Reintroduction
- Fingerboarding (moderate edges)
- Intro board climbing (slow movement)
- Light lock-offs
- Light compression
- Moderate volume
Criteria:
- No pain spikes
- No instability
- No morning stiffness
- Equal control left/right
Step 6 — High-Intensity Climbing (Low Volume)
- Hard boulders
- Board climbing
- Small edges
- Light dynos
- Power moves
…but with very low volume.
Criteria:
- Pain-free high-intensity
- No next-day increase
- Tissue feels “ready”, not fragile
Step 7 — Full Return to Climbing
- Normal training
- Normal projecting
- Normal dynos
- Normal twisting/compression
- Normal volume
Ongoing rule:
If pain increases → step back 1–2 stages.
4. The “3 Green Lights” Rule
Before you advance to a harder stage:
Green Light 1 — No morning pain
The #1 indicator of tendon health.
Green Light 2 — No pain escalation during session
Pain must be stable or decreasing.
Green Light 3 — No pain the next day
If pain rises the next day → load was too high.
You need all three before progressing.
5. What You Absolutely Must Avoid During Return-to-Climbing
- mixing intensity + volume too early
- adding dynamic moves before stability is restored
- returning to board climbing too fast
- jumping onto small crimps too soon
- pushing through “minor irritation”
- back-to-back high-intensity days
- ego-based projecting
Simple rule:
If movement becomes sloppy, stop.
Sloppy = altered force line = injury.
6. Sample 4-Week Return-to-Climbing Program
Week 1
- light climbing (Step 3)
- eccentrics + isometrics
- no intensity
Week 2
- moderate climbing (Step 4)
- light fingerboarding
- technique drills
Week 3
- strength reintroduction (Step 5)
- low-volume board
- medium edges
Week 4
- high intensity (Step 6)
- low volume
- project test day
If stable → return to full training (Step 7)
7. Red Flags — Stop and Step Back If You Feel…
- sharp pain
- instability
- clicking with pain
- pain at rest
- pain that increases during warm-up
- swelling
- next-day stiffness >1 hour
These signals mean load is too high or timing is wrong.