Repeaters Protocol (Hangboard or lift with portable edge)
Repeaters build finger endurance by repeating submaximal hangs with short rest.
Goal: maintain controlled force under fatigue — not to fail early.
Protocol
| Step | What to do |
|---|---|
| Edge | Use a 18–25 mm edge |
| Grip | Half crimp (default) or open hand |
| Load | Last reps should feel hard but controlled |
| Execution | Hang 7s / rest 3s × 6 reps |
| Sets | 3–5 sets |
| Rest | 2–3 min between sets |
Rules
| Situation | Action |
|---|---|
| Fail before rep 4–5 | Reduce load |
| Hangs drop <5s | Stop session |
| Form breaks | Stop immediately |
| No fatigue | Increase next session |
Progression
| If | Then ( next session) |
|---|---|
| Too easy | +2–5% load or smaller edge |
| Stable | Repeat for 2–3 sessions |
| Too hard | Reduce load |
What this actually trains
- Finger endurance (primary)
- Repeatable force under fatigue
- Moderate tendon loading (not maximal stimulus)
Learn more
Use with
- Hangboards
- Portable edges
- Weighted systems (advanced)
Max Climbing Verdict
Repeaters are one of the most efficient ways to build endurance and repeatability without maximal strain.
- High value for most climbers
- Lower peak stress than max hangs
- Still requires controlled progression
👉 Best used alongside max strength work, not as a replacement.